On Sunday, we arrived in Lusaka after spending a week in Chipembi (a rural area just outiside of Lusaka) serving as Resource PCVs for the RAP'11 Pre-Service Training (RAP = Rural Aquaculture Promotion). On Monday, we had dental appointments, so we'd planned to stay in Lusaka Monday night and then head back to our site in Luapula Tuesday.

Our Tuesday plans changed, however, when we learned that the Leave Request we had submitted earlier in teh month was actually approved, something we had sort of given up on.  So,the remainder of Monday was spent making eservations and buying our bus tickets for Livingstone. And Tuesday morning,we boarded a bus, not north for Mansa, but headed the opposite direction south to Livingstone- which is where I'm typing the blog entry.

We paid 120,000 Zkw (about $24 USD) each for a seat on Mazhandu's Luxury Class bus departing Lusaka at 09hrs and arriving in Livingstone about 15hrs. While we could presumably hitch down for much less, w e like this bus company and the bus ride. The seats are comfortable, there is AC, your seat is reserved for you, and they sell just one ticket per seaton teh bus (instead of packing us in like sardines).

At 15hrs we rolled into Livingstone, got off the bus and walked just 5 minutes to Jollyboys Backpackers. Despite no availability online the day before,we were able to get a private double room (shared bathroom) for 2 nights for about $34 USD a night. We really like Jollyboys because it is affordable, clean, and has a fun, young atmosphere. The meals are decent and there is a decent bar. We stayed at Jollyboys last Easter when we came down with a group of fellow PCVs we serve with in Luapula.

Now it is Wednesday, and we've had a spectacular day. When we got into Jollyboys Backpackers on Tuesday, our friend ba Mwenda (at reception) helped us sign up for a Guided Tour of Devil's Pool at the edge of Victoria Falls. The tour cost about $65USD per person, not a trifle sum but within our current budget.

We left around 10hrs and headed toward town. We hailed every taxi we saw offering them 30,000 Zkw ($6USD) to take us to the Royal Livingstone, the starting point of our 10:30hrs Devil's Pool Tour started. We stopped 3 cabs who initialy wanted 40,000 Zkw ($8USD) but would only go as low as 35,000 ($7USD).

Finally, we got to town where dozens, literally, of taxis we parked idle. There, we found ba Waxson, who agreed to take us to the Royal Livingstone for 30,000 ZKW ($6USD). One of the hallmarks of the PCV expereince is hagglingover 5,000 ZKW ($1USD), or often less, becasue when you earn local currency (we are paid in Zambian kwacha, not USD), every bit makes a difference. So,it was a win-win: we saved 10,000 Zkw ($2USD) and ba Waxson got some business on a very slow day.

Upon arriving at the Royal Livingstone, we walked through reception to the expansive patio, pool and green manicured field that looks out onto the Zambezi River. The Royal Livingstone is elegance itself and if you take a look at it's website here you'll see what I mean. (And since one pays about $900USD per night, it very well should be.)

We met our tour group of  6 on the bank of the Zambezi. We were ourselves and a very pleasant Austrailian family of 4, along with our guide, ba Kelvin. We all boarded a small outboard boat and strapped on life-jackets. I couldn't help but laugh at wearing a life-jacket. It wouldn't protect me from the most dangerous aspect of this river- the crocs and hippos swimming about. But  I strapped it on nonetheless and off we were. We zigzagged along, around shallow rocks and tiny islands populated by cormorants sunning themselves. We passed a pod of hippos and even saw a lone elephant on the river bank across from us.

The ride was short and took us out to a small island in the middle of the Zambezi and close to the edge of the falls.On the island were a rustic yet civilized "Loo with a View", changing rooms and even a kitchen and shaded dining area. We got off the boat and hiked along, passing these among the trees and vegetation, until we reached the end of the island near the edge. There, we saw Devil's Pool, about 25 meters from the island and at the very edge of the drop into the deep gorge. Whoa.

The river current was gentle, as it is now dry season and the rains stopped about 6 months ago. So, our group changed into their "bathing costumes" as they are called here and readied ourselves for swimming. Since this was an impromptu trip for Shaun and I, we didn't have our suits, so we just went in wearing our clothes. Since it was so hot and dry, we figured our clothes would be dry by the time we finshed the tour.

We entered the shallow water carefully to avoid the shallow rocks and swam across the current to another group of rocks. Then we did it again to reach Devil's Pool. The water was refreshing, but not cold. Devil's Pool is about 3meters deep and 3 wide. It stops just inchs from the drop-off int the gorge and is just meters away from the main waterfall.We all jumped into the pool, sat on the edge, even peered ver the edge to see vibrant ranbows and watch the water cascade down the long drop to met with itself again at the bottom of the gorge diving Zambia and Zimbabwe. We were on he Zambia a side and culd see the folks on the Zimbabwean side of the gorge taking pictures and generally pointing at us, the crazy fools swimming a the edge. It was quite an adrenaline rush!

After abut 20minutes of swimming and taking it all in, we swam back to the island and hiked to breakfast. We were treated to a large wooden table and chairs (for 12 people), white china and elegant flatware and delicious coffee. We chatted with each other over eggs benedict and fruit muffins.

After breakfast, we hiked back to the small boat and once again zig-zagged back to the Royal Livingstone. Shaun and I decided to take advantage of the oportunity to relax at the bar there, overlooking the Zambezi. Shaun ordered a Mosi (Zambian beer) and I ordered a Pimm's Cocktail, which together came out to 55,000 Zkw ($11USD) - quite a lot for Zambia, but well worth it! We sat in luxurious chaises lounges under large shade trees and watched the river flow by. Just 50 meters in front f the bar a pod of hippos was swimming about. We watched a crocodile sail by and then sun himself on the penninsula about 10 meters from the bar. In the distance, we could see a enormous plume of "smoke" billow up from where the river poured over the edge and into the deep gorge.It was magical and we spent all afternoon there.

We are now back  at Jollyboys Backpackers for the night. We'll dine here, enjoy some Zambian beer and South African wine and call it an early night. Tomorrow will start early, as we depart Jollyboys at 07hrs for a 3-day Tent Safari in Chobe National Park just on the other side of the Zambia-Botswana border. This all-inclusive trip costs $360perperson. We've been saving up for months for this and we are very excited!

Until next time, stay well everyone!

PS- Sorry for the typos- the keyboard on this computer sucks