Showing posts with label Mwense. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mwense. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Hailing in Rainy Season

It's hailing, yes hailing, in Mwense this afternoon.

Shaun and I have come down to the boma today to meet with the Mwense District Women's Development Association at their office in the boma. I am sitting in their office now and the hail pounding on the metal-sheet roof is deafening. It's so loud that covering my ears isn't keeping the pain of the noise away. I need to leave the office. Luckily, there is a small walkway outside where I can stand and not get as pelted by the hail as if I were standing under the mango tree outside. This walkway is still under metal sheets, but the sound has somewhere to go, rather than just bouncing around the office walls and into my eardrums.

Even out here on the covered walkway, where all of us have gathered, stray pebble-sized balls of ice pelt us. I am in the middle of this walkway, but Shaun is on the end near You And I Restaurant. He is laughing as he gets hit by the ice pebbles bouncing off You And I Restaurant's roof and onto him. The whole scene is incredible: what was just 20 minutes ago a brown, dusty ground in front of the office is now a wet, puddled clay mud carpeted in ice pebbles, little clear pebbles of ice. And just 20 minutes ago, we were sweating and fanning ourselves due to the typical and very high temperatures the end of dry season brings. Literally, when I arrived to the office after lunch it was over 100F, and now there ice is falling from the sky and covering the ground.
 
 
During the hailstorm, men hide under the metal sheets at You And I Restaurant


During the hailstorm, a view of the mango tree in front of the MDWDA office in Mwense.
 

As strange as this seems, it is actually quite normal. It wasn't until the hail started that I realized this same phenomenon happened this time last year. I don't know the scientific reason why the first big, hard rains of rainy season bring hail, but our Zambian friends tell us this happens every year at this time. I see it as is the clashing of seasons: as the hot dry season is coming reluctantly to the end of its reign, rainy season forces its way to power. There are days like today when aging dry season flexes its muscles making it unbearably hot, causing rainy season to respond (to our delight) with a thundering, stormy, cooling downpour. It makes me think of a scene I once saw on a game drive: a lion and an elephant exchanging roars and trumpets as pride and herd passed on a slender riverbank.

Rainy season had better seize that throne, or we're a bit screwed. No rain means no water for gardens, crops and fish ponds, which means no food or income. Rainy season had also better force out dry season because the rain is the only thing that cools things down. And we really need things to cool down- it's really, really hot.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Salaula Business in Zambia- Part 2


Ba Kelvin's new business has made me also ponder the secondhand industry in the United States. Back in the U.S., I made regular donations to the Goodwill GoodNeighbor Stores in Fullerton and Brea, an example set by my Grandma Pat. I would donate “old” clothes, shoes, small kitchen items and other household goods I had purchased but grown tired of or wanted to replace with something new- or I just realized I'd accumulated too much stuff to fit in closets, cabinets and pantries. When I was a student or otherwise on a tight budget, I shopped Goodwill's GoodNeighbor Stores for clothing, furniture, kitchen supplies- even party decorations.

While seeing the validity in criticisms of Goodwill, there are still several things I like about it: it seems to provide services to many factions of American society. First, it's a place for wealthier Americans to discard unwanted, gently used stuff accumulated through impulse purchases, gifts, and a general addiction to “consumption” or “buying things we don't need”. This has become an fascinating and inextricable part of American culture, psychology and economy that to knock or condone would be an entirely different blog entry.

Secondly, donations to Goodwill, and the resulting revenue, provide local employment at GoodNeighbor Stores for folks of limited skills and who haven't found employment elsewhere. At the stores I've shopped, some of employees are disabled and others older folks bridging the gap between income and expenses. Reflecting on it now, I imagine these folks had limited employment opportunity, but bills and expenses like the rest of us. And besides the financial resources employment brings, we all at some level crave the sense of empowerment and accomplishment found in employment.

Goodwill stores also present a low-cost option for low-income community members- struggling familes, students, pensioners, etc.- to purchase basics and even little luxuries.

Additionally, the unwanted items donated to Goodwill are things not going into landfills, which have become overburdened in many parts of the U.S. Thus, Goodwill provides a recycling service! Goodwill's website states that it, “receive[s] more than 500,000 donations every year and divert[s] over 13 million pounds of goods away from local landfills.”

Finally, there are the things donated to Goodwill, yet that do not sell. According the Goodwill's website, these items: “are sold to salvage merchants who ship the material to third-world countries where jobs and wages are created through sorting and selling these items.” And this circles back to our friend ba Kelvin and his new success as a “salaula” retailer.

In fact, at any market in Zambia, from Lusaka to Mwense boma to Lukwesa, you'll see secondhand clothing being sold and quite a lot of it. Here in Zambia, secondhand clothing, or “salaula”, has become an industry of serious economic importance, as evidenced in ba Kelvin's recent success. Critics of the development of this industry in the developing world claim that the availability secondhand clothing from the developed world suppresses and eventually destroys local textile industries. Perhaps Zambia serves as a case point: secondhand clothing is very popular here and the textile industry, as I understand it, is effectively defunct.

During Pre-Service Training, my Peace Corps Cibemba Language-Culture Facilitator, ba Golden, taught me that “salaula” comes from the Cibemba word “ukusala” (to chose, to select). “Salaula” refers to the secondhand clothing one buys in the market- one must rummage through a pile of clothing and chose the pieces he wants to buy.

Here in rural Zambia, everyone in our village wears salaula, as does everyone is all the other villages I've visited. It's very popular- we often see adults and children alike wearing T-shirts from small American sports teams, 5k runs, or schools. In Mansa, I once passed a youth wearing a “Newport Swimming” sweatshirt. Our friend ba Frinch's favorite shirt is a green polo shirt with an anchor and the name Ron embroidered in gold. Even as I type this, there is a group of children playing “njuka” (cards) on our front patio. They are all wearing salaula: a faded, torn “Hornets '08” T-shirt; a drab-colored children's U.S. Army T-shirt with big holes around the collar; a ragged, torn nightshirt (worn as a dress) that says “Some Bunny Loves Me”; a yellow “Belle” Halloween costume dress that now is held together by a few threads at the seams. These are salaula items that have likely been passed down from big sister/brother to younger.

Now, all this secondhand clothing in Zambia certainly does not come solely from Goodwill, but I'd wager a significant portion does. There is a book on this topic which I am interested in reading: Salaula- The World of Second-hand Clothing and Zambia, by Karen Tranberg Hansen (ISBN-10: 0226315819, ISBN-13: 9780226315812). If anyone has an extra copy lying around, feel free to send it my way. Of course, I will keep browsing the salaula book stands for the title, as well.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

This Afternoon's Bus Ride Back to the Village

Today, we were on a small bus riding from Mansa (capital of Luapula Province) back to our village. There were 25 seats (6 rows of 4 seats, plus the driver) on the bus. There were 42 men, women and children and 3 chickens on the bus. Nine passengers were in the back row- 5 adults and 4 children- and the conductors were still trying to pick up more passengers along the way. That struck me as very efficient use of space.



Picture Above: the bus stop in Mansa where we catch the Peace Soldier Bus Company's bus north to our boma, Mwense. The bus you see is the bus we took int he journey discussed above. The employees are packing the passenger's luggage on the trailer behind the bus.



Picture Above: Here's the bus again at the end of our journey, as is stops in Mwense boma to let us off. The women toward the front of the bus are selling things like bananas, groundnuts and roasted maize to the passengers. As a side note, that is one of the things I love about traveling through Africa- if you want t snack you just have to lean out the window at a stop; you don't even have to get out of your seat to get a fresh snack or fruit, roasted veggies- even fish and chicken! The gentlemen at the back of the bus near the trailer are taking off our luggage (our backpacks).

Friday, April 8, 2011

ESL Workshop in the boma

Today was the last day of the 4-day ESL Workshop I've been facilitating for our district's Women's Development Association. It's been going great and I've been inspired by these women's enthusiasm and tenacity for learning. Some cycle 40km one way and are entirely engaged each day of intense language acquisition. My hat's off to them!

 Picture Above: We are in the Women's Development Association office in the Mwense boma. We held our classes here and it was a great venue for them. We have a table and chairs for the women to study and learn at, and we had plenty of wall space to tack up flipchart paper to explain the lessons (in lieu of a chalkboard). Also, the office in the Mwense boma is centrally located, as these women come from all over Mwense District.
In this picture, the sun is shining in the windows of the office and the women are gathered around a flipchart I put up on the wall, so they can copy down the exercise on it (unfortunately I wrote too small on that one when I was preparing it the night before).


Picture Above: Here are the ladies for a group snap under a tree outside the front of their office in Mwense boma. They are all dressed in lovely dresses made from chitenge material. The wood-plank structure behind them is a small tuck-shop Shaun and I frequent to buy our bread (it's independent of the Women's Development Association).


 Picture Above: The women are working on a verb tense exercise during our workshop.

Picture Above: Here we are breaking for lunch. At the lunch break, we put all our papers and learning materials to the side of the table and converted it into our lunch table. The ladies prepared "ubwali wa mataba" (maize-meal nshima) - the white food in the furthest large white bowl - and a vegetable and a "kapenta" (tiny fish) "umunani" (relish, or side dish). It was delicious and very nice of them to provide it for us all.